Buenos Aires

One of the most photographed sites in Buenos Aires, Floralis Generica

Overview

Despite the fact that we love to travel more than just about anything else in the world, there honestly aren’t many places we could actually call home besides our true home of St. Louis, Missouri.  Buenos Aires is one of those cities, though, that we would move to tomorrow given the opportunity.

The food, the drinks, the markets, the parks, the pace of life, the nightlife, and everything we love about Argentine culture, Buenos Aires has it all and then some.  It has both a European and South American feel, but that combination of cultures is what makes BsAs stand out as a city truly unique, truly remarkable, and one that we could go back to time and time again.

Getting There/Arriving

Airplane- If flying to BsAs internationally, you’ll arrive at Ezeiza Airort, located about 21 miles (35 km) from the city center.  Taking a taxi to and from the airport is easiest, but obviously not cheapest.  A cab should run about $15-$20US, depending on where you are in the city.  It is possible to take the bus as well, and though the BsAs bus system is very extensive, it can be confusing.

Bus- If traveling around South America or Argentina and arriving by bus, which is a viable option considering the excellent state of Argentine buses, you will find yourself at the Retiro Bus Terminal.  It is next to the Retiro Railway Station and Line C of the subte (BsAs’s subway system).  The subte is the quickest, cheapest, and easiest way to get to the city center.  It is very self-explanatory and easy to figure out.  There are also taxis and buses able to get you where you need to go as well.

Getting Around

Like any other major city of 12 million people, Buenos Aires offers plenty of transportation methods within the city.

Subte- The subway system is pretty extensive, but it can’t quite get you everywhere you need to go.  It can get you to most barrios (neighborhoods) and to a close enough walk to most places, though.  It’s super cheap to ride (~$0.28US/one way ticket), super easy to figure out, and it goes most anywhere.

Bus- The bus system is more extensive than the subte, but it is not the easiest thing to figure out.  There is a book you can purchase that makes it somewhat easier, but because of the massive size of the city and the sheer volume of buses, it can get confusing.  If you do plan to brave the bus (which I suggest at least trying), make sure you have EXACT CHANGE.  They won’t accept anything else, and once you’re in BsAs for a while, you’ll notice that EVERYONE hoards change.  Seriously, everyone.

Taxi- If on a backpacker’s budget, taxis can be taken, just not all the time.  They’re still really cheap by western standards, especially for a city of this size, but they do add up.  When we were there in 2009, it cost about $7-$8US for a trip from San Telmo to Palermo, which was about a 15-20 minute drive, depending on traffic.

Where to Stay

This question garners more space than I want to take up here on the city page, as choosing a barrio (neighborhood) to stay in is very important.  The major neighborhoods are all quite different and all have a unique feel to them.  Options for accommodations are endless, from basic hostels to budget hotels to high end hotels to apartments for rent.  Be sure to check out my Buenos Aires Barrios Post, where I break down all the barrios and the pros and cons of staying in each one.

Where we Stayed

So much thought went into this decision for us as we decided BsAs would be the perfect place to unpack our bags and stay a while.  So we decided to rent an apartment for a month around the Christmas and New Year’s holidays.  It was a very wise choice, one that I honestly wish we would have repeated a few more times on our trip, but that’s for another post.  We decided to stay in San Telmo, and we rented an apartment through ByTArgentina.

Food and Drink

You may or may not know our affinity for food and drink around here at World Travel for Couples.  If this is your first time here, just know that we take great pride in writing about and reviewing our culinary adventures not only in our travels, but at home, too.  Buenos Aires treated us very well in this department.  If you’re a vegetarian or not a fan of red meat, you may not enjoy it as much as we did, but there is still plenty for everyone.

Because we were there for an entire month, we ate at tons of different places, so reviewing them all would be too time consuming.  I will highlight some of our favorite restaurants and food we ate while in BsAs.  Before reading ahead, you may want to make sure you’ve checked out my post about eating in Argentina.

Parillas (Steak Restaurants)- Argentina is known for it’s red meat, and while it’s not really possible to go out for a nice steak dinner for under $5 anymore like it was in the early 2000′s, you can still have a great piece of meat, sides, and a bottle or two of red wine for about $20-30, which is pretty damn impressive, especially considering the quality of meat.

• El Desnivel- It’s in all the guidebooks, you will see many tourists here, but locals flock to El Desnivel as well, and for good reason.  The food is fantastic, the atmosphere is laid back and fun, and it’s really cheap.  Located in San Telmo, this place is always crowded, but it’s worth the wait for a steak the size of your head.  We went to a few fancier restaurants for steaks, which costs twice as much, and El Desnivel was actually better.  If you’re a steak eater, you don’t want to miss it.
• La Caballeriza- Located in Puerto Madero, La Caballeriza is quite a bit fancier than a place like El Desnivel.  We were lucky enough to have a local friend take us here for lunch one day, and it was very, very good.  If traveling in BsAs for just a short vacation, or if you’re looking for something a little more upscale, this is a great restaurant in a great area.

Asados- The Argentines to love their asados (or barbecues), and there are plenty of places to hit up if you’re looking for a buffet style meat extravaganza.  Many of these places are tenedor libre, or all you can eat, and it’s a great way to sample some different types of meat you may not otherwise be bold enough to (like morcilla, chinchulin, rinones, or my personal favorite, mollejas).  If you have no idea what any of that stuff is, no fear, just read the Eating your way around Argentina post.

San Telmo Eats- Since our apartment was in San Telmo, we didn’t venture out too often when eating.  And since we had an apartment and we both love cooking, we cooked in a whole lot as it was something we really missed while being on the road.  But if you’re planning on staying in San Telmo, here were some of our favorite places that aren’t named El Desnivel.

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  Unique and interesting pizzas at Mi Tio

  Mi Tio- A great little pizza joint located on Defensa, Mi Tio serves all different types of pizzas.  The staff is very nice and helpful (one server told us we were ordering way too much food for two people), and though small, it’s a fun atmosphere with cheap, solid food.

• Bar El Federal- I have mixed feelings about Bar El Federal.  The set-up is really nice, with tables and chairs on the patio out front and a really nice bar area, and the food was really good (try the milanesa-YUM), and the bill was always cheap, even with the obligatory bottle or two of wine.  Now I’ve talked about how I love the laid back vibe of Argentina, but the service at this place was just downright rude sometimes.  That being said, we didn’t really care much as we came back several times, but just a word to the wise.
• La Moderna- This little pizza joint was a block and a half from our apartment, so we frequented it often, especially on our way home from Spanish class.  They sold pizza by the slice and had really tasty empanadas.  Extra points go to the owner for literally throwing a customer out the door.
• Todo Mundo- Plaza Dorrego is always lively, and it is surrounded by little restaurants, some, like Todo Mundo, with seating in the plaza where live tango shows are performed.  The food and wine are a little pricier compared to surrounding places, but the ambience is second to none.  It’s not even necessary to eat a meal here.  Just grab a bottle of wine and picada (small plates like a sausage and cheese plate), and sit back and enjoy!
• Ice Cream-
  • Freddo- Freddo is a chain ice cream shop found all over BA, but it is still quite tasty.  On Defensa, it’s usually crowded a tad pricier than other smaller ice cream shops, but it’s still top notch.
  • Local Shop (corner of Tacuari and Humberto 1)- Oh. My. God.  Fortunately (or unfortunately, depending on how you look at it), this place (which we cannot remember the name of) was literally around the corner from our apartment, and they sold ice cream by the pint.  Best of all?  They would make containers of half and half.  Our favorite?  Half dark chocolate, half dulce de leche.  Then you take that bad boy back to the apartment, get out the jar of dulce de leche (if at this point you’re wondering what the hell dulce de leche is, quickly get over to the Eating your way around Argentina food post and find out.  Quick!), put it all into a big bowl, and devour!
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  These Heavenly little pastries would have me weighing 300 pounds if I lived in BsAs

  Facturas- Facturas, facturas, oh how I miss you.  These sweet little pastries could be found in many panaderias (bakeries) around the city, and they were delish!  They could be filled with any number of things, like fruit, dulce de leche, or dulce de membrillo (seriously, read the food post).  They were then topped with icing or sugar of some kind.  I’m not kidding when I say that we gained a scary amount of weight our month here.  I digress.  There isn’t any one place to get facturas, just let your nose guide you, and try as many as you can. 
  

Ethnic Eats- Although we typically love a variety of food at all times, while at home and while traveling, we didn’t seem to vary it up too much during our month in BsAs.  Steak, pizza, facturas, empanadas, pasta, and milanesa seemed to be our go-to dishes.  If it was one complaint we had about the food in BsAs it’s that there wasn’t a huge variety of ethnic restaurants.  Being the major metropolis that it is, we assumed the choices would be unlimited, but you really had to look to find good ethnic food.  We did manage to make it out one of our final few nights in BsAs to a very good Indian restaurant located in Palermo, which seemed to be the neighborhood to go to if you’re looking for something other than steak, pizza, and pasta.

• Mumbai- Located in the trendy Palermo Hollywood neighborhood, Mumbai was a very authentic Indian restaurant that served up some yummy food.  Remember that Argentines typically don’t like their food spicy, so if you do, be sure to ask for it.

Butchers- We were fortunate enough to get introduced to our Spanish teacher’s local butcher, where we purchased some dirt cheap steaks to cook for ourselves one night.  If you enjoy cooking and want a great dinner for dirt cheap prices, consider asking around for local butchers.  You can get some dynamite meat for really cheap prices and have your own asado!

Things to Do

There is no shortage of activities to keep you busy while in Buenos Aires, whether it’s for a few days, a few weeks, or a few months.  One of our favorite things to do in any huge city is simply wander, and we did tons of it during our month in BsAs.  The barrios all offer a different feel, and just walking around is a great way to get a feel for each one.  Because of the many activities available in Buenos Aires, I’ll break down what to do by barrio.  If you haven’t read it yet, you may want to go back and read the post about the different barrios of Buenos Aires.

San Telmo- By now you know we had an apartment in San Telmo, so we spent tons of time there, and there’s plenty to do besides eating and drinking.

• Sunday Market at Plaza Dorrego- One of the highlights of any visit to BsAs is a trip to San Telmo’s massive Sunday antique market.  Browse around the many arts and crafts booths, sip some mate, watch some tango, or just people watch.  It’s a great time and the neighborhood really comes alive each and every Sunday.

• Plaza Dorrego- Sunday is the best day to visit Plaza Dorrego, but this square is alive any day of the week with tango shows and vendors selling their goods.  If you want a more laid back vibe, come back during any other day and sit at one of the plaza’s many restaurants while sipping some wine and taking it all in.

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  Parque Lezama

  Parque Lezama- The market extends south all the way to Parque Lezama, one of the older parks in the city that used to be one of its most beautiful.  It’s a little shady these days, especially at night, but it’s still a beautiful park with a curiously placed Russian Orthodox Church, which is quite stunning.  Definitely worth a visit.

• Tango Shows- Tango shows are available all over the city, and some find them overpriced and touristy.  San Telmo has a large collection of clubs that offer lessons and shows, so do a bit of research.  We preferred a trip to La Boca for some tango, but San Telmo is also a good place to see one of Argentina’s most popular pasttimes.

Palermo- If trendy and nightlife are your thing, then Palermo is the barrio for you.  BsAs’s best dressed and beautiful hang out here, but there’s also a good amount of green space for those outdoor lovers.

• Parque Tres de Febrero- A massive park plopped down right in the middle of the city, this place is great for getting away from the hustle and bustle.  A zoo, a Japanese Garden, a planetarium, botanical gardens, and several little lakes make this a great place to come hang out.  You can also rent bikes here, just wander around, or bring yourself a nice picnic (complete with wine, of course) and just hang out.  We enjoyed this park many a times.
• MALBA (Museo de Arte Latinoamericano)- This museum is a great place to see Latin American artists’ works.  Cost is about $3.50US (FREE on Wednesdays! and closed on Tuesdays).

Recoleta- Recoleta Cemetery is the highlight here, but there is also plenty of restaurants and parks to keep any traveler occupied for a while.

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  Saying some of the mausoleums were a bit overdone may be an understatement

  Recoleta Cemetery- A stunningly beautiful cemetery, at least as far as cemeteries go, is one of the city’s highlights.  Evita is buried here, along with many other famous Argentines.  The enormity and detail of the mausoleums is very impressive, as this place is a mini-city within a city.  A photographer’s playground, so be sure to check out the picture post for Recoleta Cemetery.

• Feria Hippie- Markets of any and all kinds are favorites of ours when traveling, and since we both are part hippie, this “hippie fair” that takes place every Saturday and Sunday was right up our alley.  Located in Plaza Francia near the cemetery, this is a great place to wander and people watch.  The goods are more expensive than Plaza Dorrego’s Sunday Market, but you can still find some goodies for cheap.
• Floralis Generica- One of the most photographed images in BsAs, this giant metal flower has 6 petals and 4 pistons. The petals close every night from sunset to sunup, and it’s a 20-minute process that mimics the movement of a flower.  A pool and winding paths surround the flower and provide different viewpoints.

La Boca- Tourists flock to La Boca for two reasons, to see a Boca Juniors futbol game or to see some tango.  One of the rougher barrios in BA, you don’t want to wander too far off the beaten path, but if you stick to the touristy areas, you’ll be fine.

• Tango Shows- A major highlight of our time in BsAs was the afternoon we spent in La Boca drinking wine, eating, and watching a tango show.  For more in depth information and a recap of our day, make sure you come back Wednesday to check out the post about our very memorable day here.
• Futbol- Red meat, red wine, tango, and futbol are major passions of nearly every Argentine.  The Boca Juniors are the most popular team, and a trip to see a game would be a major highlight for anyone, soccer fan or not.  They do get pretty crazy, so gringos should probably go with a tour group if wanting to experience this.

City Center (area around Plaza de Mayo)- Plaza de Mayo is the heart of Buenos Aires, with tons of sights to see all around it.

• Casa Rosada- Named the Pink House because of its color (also called Casa de Gobierno), this building has the presidential offices and also has the balcony where Evita delivered some of her famous speeches
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  Buenos Aires Cathedral

  Cathedral- On the north end of the plaza, this church is on the site of the very first church in Buenos Aires

• Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo- Every Thursday at 3:30pm, a group of mothers march around the central monument to remember their children who disappeared during one of Argentina’s most violent times, known as the dirty war in the 1970′s.  Photos of their missing loved ones are adorned to their shirts.
• Shopping- If you’re a shopper, this is the area you want to be in.
  • Av Florida- Just north of Plaza de Mayo you will find Av Florida, which is basically an outdoor mall, with tons of shops of all different kinds selling just about anything.  The streets all around Florida also have plenty of stores, movie theaters (showing films in English, too!), and restaurants.  If you’re looking for shopping a little more familiar than the Latin American markets found all over, then this is where you want to go.  Obviously more expensive than the markets, but still cheaper than shopping at home.  It’s a nice walk from Plaza de Mayo all the way to Plaza San Martin.
• Plaza San Martin- Another green space in this concrete jungle, Plaza San Martin is a nice place to just sit, read a book, take pictures, or just people watch.  The plaza has the Palacia San Martin, a memorial with an eternal flame dedicated to those who died in the Falklands/Malvinas War of 1982, and a monument to San Martin.

Puerto Madero- This area has been recently renovated and now houses several more upscale restaurants and is becoming the place to go for nightlife.  It’s a wonderful place to walk around.

• Costanera Sur Wildlife Reserve- A fantastic free activity, this wildlife reserve deserves more hype.  Walking or bike riding is permitted, and this area has over 200 species of birds.  Walking the entire perimeter will take about 3 hours, but it’s a lovely walk.  There are several lakes and parks all around it, making it a great place to visit for the day.  Food stands are everywhere as well, selling tasty cheap eats.  This is a great place to try a choripan.