El Chalten

El Chalten below Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre

Overview

El Chalten and the surrounding areas are some of the most memorable times we spent while in Patagonia.  Any traveler would be hard-pressed to find a more beautiful area of the world.  While the town is there solely for the surrounding areas and is changing by the day, it still has some good restaurants and bars to frequent after a long day of hiking.  El Chalten is a can’t miss area of Patagonia, in my opinion, and if you’re an outdoorsman, you’ll be in Heaven.

Getting There/Arriving

There is no airport in El Chalten, so bus or renting a car are your only options.

Bus- Most tourists start their Patagonian adventures in El Calafate, the town that lies about 4-5 hours south of El Chalten. Daily buses run from El Calafate for about $38US round trip/person.

Car Rental- If you want to take it slow and go at your own pace, consider renting a car.  If we had a higher budget, this would have been an awesome option as the drive is spectacular.  Renting a car will run about $50US/day for a small car with insurance.

Getting Around

El Chalten from above

We were in El Chalten in January 2009, and there was construction going on everywhere.  I’m sure now, almost two years later, we would hardly recognize it.  But it was still a really small place that is flat and easy to get around on foot.

The bus station stops at a welcome center where rangers give a short presentation (in both Spanish and English) and give some great tips and complimentary hiking/camping/climbing maps of the surrounding areas.  Don’t skip out on this as it’s very helpful, and you will have the opportunity to speak with some of the rangers about any specific questions you may have.

Where to Stay

It may not look this small anymore

As already stated, I have to imagine the town has changed a bit since we were there almost two years ago, but it’s still a really small place that’s easily navigated on foot.  There were hostels/hotels everywhere, mainly on the main drag of Av. San Martin.  I will have an entire post about tips for visiting, trekking, and camping in and around El Chalten tomorrow, but know that if coming in the summer months (December-February), booking ahead is essential if you plan on getting a bed or room.

Where we stayed- We had a few dorm beds in a 4-person dorm room (shared bath) at the Albergue Patagonia Hostel.  Price is about $17.50US/person for a bed.  No breakfast was included.  The rooms were small, but nice, same with the bathrooms and kitchen.  Everything was very clean and orderly, just small.  The common areas were quite nice, provided great views out of the wall of windows, and the staff was excellent and very helpful.  Definitely recommend it.

Food and Drink

I wasn’t going to get my hopes up for good meals in El Chalten considering it was a very touristy town, and touristy towns typically don’t have the best food and drink options available.  While we didn’t eat out often as we spent our days hiking, we did make it out for dinner a few times, and we were pleasantly surprised.

Bodegon El Chalten- Right next door to the Albergue Patagonia Hostel, this is the place to go if you’re a beer drinker.  My love of beer and good food is no secret, and the Bodegon El Chalten was just what we needed after a long day of hiking.  South America is not known for their quality of beer, but Patagonia is one region where you can actually find some good, tasty microbrews.  The food was very good here as well, with a traditional Patagonian stew as a highlight.  Pizzas, empanadas, and sandwiches are also served here and are very tasty.

Patagonicus- Serving pizza and good beer in a log-cabin type setting, Patagonicus was great after a long day out on the trail.  Located on Av. Guemes, this place was always pretty crowded.  A great place for a reasonably priced meal and a few drinks.

Grocery Stores- There are a few little grocery stores and markets around town that sell anything you may need for out on the trail.  If you have the room in your packs and are coming from El Calafate, it might be a good idea to stock up there as prices are way cheaper.

Things to Do

A small glimpse of the beauty of the surrounding area

Hiking/Trekking- Travelers and backpacker come to El Chalten for one reason and one reason only, and that’s to trek.  The trails around the area are spectacular.  Glaciers, lakes, waterfalls, Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy are all within a day hike from town.  The trails are very well marked and maintained, there are plenty of campgrounds, and the hiking possibilities are fantastic.  We spent 5 nights in El Chalten, hiking every day, including a marathon final three days that saw us hike 48.5 miles (78 km) in preparation for our W trek in Torres del Paine.  Be sure to check out the Trekking Guide to El Chalten and my guides to hiking three different trails in the area.

Camping- Though we decided to stay at a hostel in town and just do day hikes every day, there are tons of camping possibilities on the trails.  If you don’t have a tent and the appropriate gear with you, have no fear because there are plenty of places in town to rent the gear you need.

Climbing- Climbing is not something we’ve gotten into (yet), but El Chalten provides a lot of opportunity if it’s your thing.  I can’t imagine how amazing it would be to climb the face of Cerro Torre.