Bariloche

A view of Bariloche from a hike to Cerro Otto

Overview

When a place is described as touristy, it immediately turns some travelers off, especially long term travelers and a certain sect of backpackers.  There is a good reason why places are touristy though, and that’s typically because they kick ass.  Now some places can get ruined by being over-touristy, I admit that.  Bariloche is not one of those places.

With the exception of our month in Buenos Aires and our 5 stops in Bangkok while in SE Asia, Bariloche was the city we spent the most time in, and we were honestly sad to leave.  The beautiful epicenter of the Lake District in Argentina and Chile, just north of Patagonia, Bariloche is THE place to go for outdoor activities.  And while it certainly is touristy, the throngs of people and large number of souvenir shops doesn’t detract from this fantastic city.

Getting there/Arriving

Airplane- The airport is about 9 miles (15km) outside of town, and depending on where you’re coming from and if you can afford it, a flight may be a good idea.

Bus- The bus terminal is just short taxi/local bus ride from the center of town.  You can find bus service to and from most parts of Argentina, but it’s probably going to a long ride, especially if coming from the south.  Here’s some tips for bussing it to Bariloche.

• A trip from the El Calafate/El Chalten area can take two days if you go Ruta 40, and from what we’ve heard, it isn’t the best ride, despite the fact that Argentine buses typically rock.
• If coming from El Calafate or El Chalten, consider going south to Rio Gallegos and then north up to the Puerto Madryn/Trelew area.  You can fit in some time at the Punta Tombo penguin colony or seeing wildlife in Puerto Madryn for a few days while breaking up the two day bus trip.
• A ride to or from Buenos Aires is about 18-22 hours and costs about $70US for coche cama (check out my Argentine bus post to find out more about taking buses in Argentina).

Getting Around

Walking the shores of Lago Nahuel Huapi

Foot- The town itself is pretty small, and depending on where you’re staying, the city is pretty easily walkable.

Cab- Taxis are pretty cheap in Bariloche, and taking one to and from the bus station shouldn’t set you back but a few dollars.

Local Bus- The local bus is a cheaper option and runs along Av San Martin (the main road through town where the bus station is located).  It is very easy to figure out and runs west out of town to many different hiking/biking trails.

Car Hire- Renting a car is something I really wish we would have considered when in Bariloche.  Driving north through Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi is supposed to be absolutely breathtaking as is driving the seven lakes tour (La Ruta de los Siete Lagos).

Where to Stay

As stated earlier, Bariloche is pretty small and easily walkable, with a glut of hostels and other accommodations around Av San Martin, mostly south and up.  If coming in high season (December – February or July-August), book in advance, especially if you have a particular place in mind (after reading the rest of this post and 5 Reasons Why Hostel Pudu is the Best Hostel in the World , you should have a place in mind).

The view from our room at Hostel Pudu

Where we Stayed- I’m not going to say much about it on this page because it really deserves its own post, but we stayed at Hostel Pudu, which ended up being one of our absolute favorite places we’ve ever stayed–hostel, hotel, guesthouse, campground, doesn’t matter–this place was incredible.

Food and Drink

Bariloche ended up being our final destination in Argentina before heading across the border to Chile, so we took advantage of one of our favorite foodie destinations by eating plenty of asado and lomitos and drinking plenty of wine.  Bariloche is also known for its chocolate, which is an obvious major added bonus.  A great place to say “Adios!” to one of our favorite countries.  As I began writing the food portion of this page, it took on a life of its own as I went back through mental notes and pictures and guide books.  Since we spent 11 nights in Bariloche, we ate quite a bit, and since it was our final stop in Argentina, we splurged a bit more than we did on the rest of the trip.  Because of my enthusiasm for all things food, particularly food in Argentina, stay tuned for the Foodie’s Guide to Bariloche coming on Thursday!

Things to Do

If you like outdoor activities, then Bariloche is a great place to spend some time.  Hiking, biking, climbing, horseback riding, water sports, snow skiing and snowboarding, you can do it all in a picturesque setting.

This has been voted one of the best views in the world, and it doesn't disappoint

Hiking- There are tons of hiking/trekking trails in and around Bariloche, from easy little day hikes to muliti day trekking/climbing adventures for the hard core outdoorsman.  No matter what your ability, there are beautiful hikes for you.

• Cerro Otto- You can reach Cerro Otto from wherever you’re staying in town in a variety of different ways.  And if you only do one thing while in Bariloche, check out this view.
  • One way to reach Cerro Otto is by hiking through town.  This is perfect for those who don’t have much hiking experience as you just walk up a paved road for most of the hike.  You can veer off at a few points, one of which we came across a team of police/military personnel that were rock climbing.  It was pretty awesome to stop and watch for a while.  A little ski resort/restaurant/bar is near the top and is a good stopping point before continuing on.  While the terrain is easy, the walk is straight up the entire way there and takes several hours, so be prepared.
  • Another way to reach Cerro Otto is by cable car (cost is about $10US).  Av Bustillo runs parallel to the lake, and at Km 5 a cable car goes up to Cerro Otto.  There is a revolving restaurant at the top with views that have been voted as the best in the world.
  • We even heard of some people hiking straight up below where the cable cars run.  This is an option for those who are really fit as we heard some not so fun stories from unfit people.
  • You can even reach Cerro Otto by horse (see below).

Biking- There are many companies that offer bike rentals for getting around Bariloche or for taking into the wilderness for some serious mountain biking excursions.

Not one of my favorite activities, but if you enjoy horseback riding, this is the place to do it

Horseback Riding- I hadn’t been horseback riding since I was about 5 years-old when my horse ran off with me.  It was horrifying, it scarred my forever, and I have sworn I would never do it again.  But I faced my fears in Bariloche and tried it again.  We went with Tom Wesley Cabalgatas, and while the guide was very nice and friendly, he didn’t speak any English, which was a bit difficult when talking about something technical like horseback riding.  We were supposed to ride on beaches and around lakes, but it was too windy that day, so we went up in the mountains.  We did get to Cerro Otto, which was awesome, and we had some fantastic views, but horseback riding is just not my thing.  I was very nervous, and the horse knew it.

Paragliding- When wandering around the town or chilling on the lake, you will notice paragliders floating above.  Several companies offer paragliding, and if you don’t mind heights, I would imagine this would be an incredible experience with breathtaking views.

Skiing/Snowboarding- If you find yourself here during the winter months (June-September), then it’s time to hit the slopes around Bariloche.  Lifts are typically open from 9-5 and daily lift passes cost about $25US for Cerro Cathedral and Cerro Otto.  There are several different companies around town to rent equipment from.