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Chile

by Adam Seper

Volcan Villarica in Pucon, Chile

One of the highlights of the trip for me-standing on top of a volcano (Volcan Villarica)

Overview

Chile was never on our initial itinerary for the South American leg.  Not because we didn’t want to go, but for some reason it just got neglected during our initial planning process.  While we did only manage to spend a few weeks there, we enjoyed the hell out of that limited time and are very happy that we decided to add it.  Chilean Patagonia was just as rugged and stunning as the Argentine side, and Torres del Paine, while being the biggest trekking challenge either of us has ever encountered, was fantastic.

I finally managed to live my dream of standing atop an active volcano (yet I saw no lava, so it’s really only half crossed of my bucket list).  The food was an unexpected and delightful highlight of our time in Chile, particularly in Valparaiso (a city that we really weren’t fond of, but our opinion was definitely in the minority).  And Santiago was another great, big metropolitan city with food and drink choices galore (Terremoto’s anyone?–You’ll have to read the Santiago restaurant reviews to find out more).

Highlights-What to Do

Guard shack in Torres del Paine National Park, Chile

Views like this were the norm when trekking in Torres del Paine

Torres del Paine-A trekkers paradise awaits in this national park in Chilean Patagonia.  The “W” trek (which takes 4-5 days) is the most popular, but the full circuit (7-10 days) will give hikers a lot more solitude.  Glaciers, mountains, lakes, valleys, and the namesake of the park, the Torres del Paine, are what brings outdoor enthusiasts from all over the world to Chile.  The town of Puerto Natales is the base for exploring the park, and it has everything you need for sale or rent.  We struggled with researching how best to trek TDP, so be sure to check out THE Definitive Guide to Trekking Torres del Paine Guide post.  I have organized everything you need to know and have it all in one place.

Santiago-For only spending a few days in Santiago, both Megan and I have a great affinity for it.  Having a group of travel friends with us certainly helped, but even if we were flying solo (or two-lo, or, hell, I don’t the word for it), I think we would have loved Santiago all the same.  Great food is always a good recipe for our love of a place, and Santiago delivered, along with the infamous terremoto (I know you’re dying to know what this drink is–I’ll give you a hint–the English translation is “earthquake.”  So go ahead and click on the Santiago page; it’s worth it).

I think I saw this outfit on Project Runway recently

Volcan Villarica-We just Hiked a F’n Volcano was the title of my blog post written just hours after doing it.  And yes, we did hike a volcano, an active one, and it was as awesome as it sounds.  Not only did we hike up to the top of a volcano, but then we got to don a stylish outfit that allowed us to hurl ourselves back down the volcano on our asses.  Yeah, it was great, and I highly recommend you go do it.  Pucon is the city at the base of the volcano, which didn’t have a whole lot to offer, other than good food and being at the base of a volcano, surrounded by several other volcanoes.  So maybe it did have a few things to offer.

Budget

Chile is comparable to Argentina as far as budget goes.  We spent 18  days there and averaged $110/day, which probably gives some of you a bit of sticker shock.  Keep in mind that most of that was spent in Torres del Paine, which, especially during high season, is painfully expensive, especially if you don’t have your own camping equipment, which we did not.  If you head to the very comprehensive, organized, and extremely helpful Trekking Guide for Torres del Paine, I’ll give you plenty of hints to save a bit if that’s what you’re looking for.

When to Go/Weather

Chile is an oddly shaped country that has a lot of land north to south and very little east to west.  From the driest desert in the world in the north, bordering Peru, Bolivia, and Argentina, to the fjords and glaciers to the south, and including the mountainous lake district in the center, Chile has many different climates.  This obviously will effect when to go, and as I suggested with Argentina, you are going to have to prioritize what it is you want to see and do.

Any time between October and April is good for visiting the central part of the country, although December to February will be pretty hot in Santiago.  In the north, June to September is best, while the opposite is true for the Patagonian regions to the south.  Just like it’s Argentine counterpart, travelers will find December to January the best weather-wise, but with it  comes more crowds and higher prices.

Transportation

Transportation in Chile is similar to Argentina.  Expect to pay a bit more than other countries (Peru, Colombia, Bolivia), and expect a comfort level similar to that of Argentina.  The roads are pretty well maintained, and the buses generally run on time.  As with Argentina, booking in advance (a couple days is adequate) may be necessary during high season (December-February), and prices go up, especially in the south in the Patagonian regions of Chile.

Click on any of the links on this page for more information, or click below to get a more in depth description of each city/region, complete with hostel, restaurant, tour guide, and activity information:

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  • hillary

    I am interested in your TDP trekking guide for the W trail. I can't get the above links to work…am I missing something?

    Thanks -
    Hillary

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