Colombia

The view from our finca (coffee farm) pool

Overview

“Ahhhhh, Colombia, you HAVE to go to Colombia,” was the phrase emphatically spoken to us at breakfast during our first morning in South America.  A wise woman she was, as I agree.  You HAVE to go to Colombia.  Of all the countries I have visited in the world, Colombia is still my favorite.  Like many other countries, it does have it all.  Beautiful, picturesque beaches with crystal clear water, bustling cities, jungles, mountains, food, culture, history. But it’s the people who set Colombia apart from many other places.  We’ve met some great people around the world, but nothing like the Colombians.

They will welcome you with open arms, a huge heart, but most importantly of all, a smile as big as can be.  Colombians are happy people, and their happiness and joy is contagious, making it nearly impossible to have a frown as long as you’re there.

“But Adam,” you are thinking, “isn’t Colombia a haven for drug lords, violence, and kidnappings?”  That was the old Colombia.  While it’s true that drugs and violence can still be found in Colombia, it’s also true that this country has undergone a massive makeover during the last decade.  As long as you listen to the locals and stay away from the few problem areas left, you will not have a clue that Colombia used to be one of the most violent countries in the world.  Now that Colombia has cleaned up its act, the locals are ecstatic to welcome travelers to their country to show off the astounding beauty it has.  That nice, young Spanish woman we met in Lima that very first morning said it best, “You HAVE to go to Colombia.”

Highlights-What to Do

Total seclusion for most of our stay in Tayrona

Parque Nacional Tayrona-The most peaceful and serene tropical oasis I have ever been to is located on the Caribbean coast, outside the sleepy little fishing village of Taganga.  Tayrona National Park is still very undeveloped (as of 2009) with only a few accommodations with beds.  Most options have backpackers sleeping in hammocks or pitching a tent just a stones throw away from the beach.  The best part about Tayrona are the beaches–jungle trails go from secluded beach to secluded beach, giving travelers the opportunity to have their very own private beach for the day.  It truly is heaven on earth.

WARNING: If you go to Taganga, it WILL be difficult to leave

Taganga-The sleepy fishing village of Taganga will suck you in and make you never want to leave.  I am not exaggerating when I say every single person we met who had been to Taganga stayed longer than initially planned.  Taganga is located in a calm, quiet little bay off the Caribbean, and it has everything a sleepy fishing village should have.  Great seafood, peace and solitude, diving and snorkeling, and just a fantastic, laid back vibe that we came to love from Colombia.

Bogota-Despite not living in a huge city, we love big, urban centers, so Bogota was a place we enjoyed immensely.  One of our favorite hostels on the trip was here, so make sure you check out the Bogota page for more in depth information.  Colombia’s capital city offers some unique attractions that many other big cities don’t.  I’m not a museum guy, but there are several museums that really appealed to me, like the Gold Museum, the Police Museum, and the Donacion Botero Museum, which contains some famous works from Colombia’s most renowned artist, Fernando Botero.

The architecture and vibrant colors of Cartagena's historic center.

Cartagena-If photography is your passion, then the fortified, colonial city of Cartagena is your haven.  While it was the most touristy place we visited in Colombia, it’s easy to see why.  The stunning architecture, bright and vibrantly colored buildings, great food, proximity to the beach, and ultra-friendly people all combine to make this touristy place a pleasure to visit instead of a hassle.

La Zona Cafetera-Coffee is one of Colombia’s biggest exports, and the region dubbed “La Zona Cafetera” is located in a gorgeous part of the country that has the perfect mix of climate and altitude for growing coffee beans.  The highlight when visiting this area is a stay on a finca, or coffee farm, where tourists will go on tours of the land and of course have plenty of coffee.  Being that you’re in Colombia, you will be welcomed into the finca as though you’re a member of the family, and staying several days is a great way to relax and experience something a little out of the ordinary.

Budget

Colombia is still a very affordable place to visit, but the prices are rising with the popularity of tourism.  When we were there in Spring 2009, it was still pretty cheap though.  In fact, we spent less per day in Colombia than we did in any other South American country ($69.50/day on average).  That number may look a bit skewed as we didn’t have any large, pricey, one time expenses like we did everywhere else.  As always, check out the budget page for more detailed information.

When to Go/Weather

High season in Colombia is December to February, right smack in the middle of the southern hemisphere’s Summer.  Temperatures don’t vary much in Colombia as it has a tropical climate.  Unless you’re at a high elevation, temperatures will be hot year-round.  The summer months are driest, making it most popular, but with that popularity comes crowds, so keep that in mind when planning your trip.  April-May and October-November see the heaviest rainfall.

Transportation

If you’re a budget traveler or backpacker in Colombia, then buses are the way to go.  They are surprisingly comfortable, and overnight buses are now a safe option, whereas in years past it was not advisable to travel after dark.  While the buses are comfortable from a cushiony seat and roomy standpoint, the temperature inside the buses was fickle, and the drivers were a bit crazy, so beware.  Nutty drivers aside, the Colombian countryside is gorgeous, so traveling by day does have its advantages.  Prices are very affordable, and if you’re not traveling during high season, bargaining down the price of a bus is possible.  We ended up getting our overnight Bogota-Santa Marta bus for half the original asking price, so don’t be afraid to ask!

Click on any of the links on this page for more information, or click below to get a more in depth description of each city/region, complete with hostel, restaurant, tour guide, and activity information:

Bogota                                                                         Cartagena

Taganga                                                                       Playa Blanca

Parque Nacional Tayrona                                    Medellin

La Zona Cafetera