Parque Nacional Tayrona

Cabo Beach in Parque Nacional Tayrona

Overview

When thinking of national parks, yellow sand beaches, beautiful waters, swaying palm trees, and sleeping in swaying hammocks isn’t usually what comes to mind.  But in Colombia and Parque Nacional Tayrona, this is exactly what’s in store.  A beautiful national park that was dangerous and nearly impossible to visit a little over 10 years ago, Tayrona is becoming a hot tourist destination in Colombia.  Get there now before it changes for the worse.

Getting There/Arriving

From Taganga- Many travelers go to Tayrona from the little fishing village of Taganga.  If in Taganga, you have two options for travel to Tayrona.

• Boat- If you’re a glutton for punishment, take the boat.  We thought this would be a great way to get to the park, but little did we know we’d be taking a tiny fishing boat into the middle of the Caribbean.  I’m not sure if the sea was particularly rough that day, but this boat ride was one of the scariest experiences of my life.  The two hour ride does drop you at the back of the park, saving you a few hour hike to Cabo Beach if that’s where you plan on staying.  Price depends on number of people in the boat.  We paid about $36US for both of us.
• Bus- If you want to take a bus, you’ll have to make your way back to Santa Marta.

From Santa Marta-  Taking a bus from Santa Marta is quickest, cheapest, and least painful way of getting to Tayrona.

• Bus- The market in Santa Marta at Carrera 11 and Calle 11 sees buses leaving throughout the day for the 45 minute drive to the entrance of Tayrona.  Cost is about $2.  You can also take the tourist bus from Hotel Miramar in Santa Marta at 11am daily.  Cost is about $5.

Transportation back to Santa Marta- Buses leave periodically from the entrance of Tayrona and go back to Santa Marta.  It’s easy to just walk out of the park, stand at the bus stop, and just wait.  You can also take the boat back to Taganga.  Boats typically arrive near Cabo Beach at the back of the park in the morning before lunch time.

Layout of the Park/Getting Around

The park entrance is at the east end of the park at El Zaino, where tickets are sold.  You can walk about one hour into the park or hop on a colectivo.  There are several places to stay and hang out once in the park.

Canaveral is the first place you come across after the entrance, about an hour walk or a short colectivo ride from the entrance.  From there you can take the hiking trails throughout the rest of the park.  Arecifes is up next, about 45 minutes from Canaveral, then another 45 minutes to Cabo.  From Cabo it’s a few hour hike to the archaeological site of Pueblito.  If you take the boat from Taganga, then you will  be dropped at Cabo Beach.

Where to Stay

Depending on your budget and level of comfort you require, it’s possible to stay in three different areas within Tayrona National Park.

Canaveral- If you have a high budget, staying in one of Canaveral’s ecohabs is the place to stay.  These ecohuts can run upwards of $250-300US.  There are also tents and hammocks available for rent.

Arrecifes- Accommodations are cheaper here than in Canaveral, and there is both cabins and campsites, with hammocks for rent.

Cabo- A beautiful campsite complete with a soccer pitch, two beautiful beaches, and a unique sleeping opportunity, Cabo Beach is the place for the backpackers.  Hammocks cost about $7.50US/person and tents are available for rent. There is also a two story bungalow located high above the sea looking out over the park where you can rent hammocks for the night.  It’s a stunning view, but the wind makes for a challenging night’s sleep.

Where we Stayed- We stayed at Cabo beach and rented a couple hammocks for a few nights.  It was comfortable and very basic, with basic toilets and shower facilities.  There are lockers available to lock up any valuables you may have.

Food and Drink

There are restaurants at all three towns along the way in Tayrona.  There are also very basic markets selling food and drink.  Obviously these are much more expensive than if you get supplies in Santa Marta or Taganga before arriving.  We stayed in Cabo Beach, so we ate there for all our meals.  They were basic, tourist type food, heavy on rice, beans, and french fries.  Nothing to write home about, but not terrible either.  Meals were a bit pricey, but that’s to be expected in a place like this, but I didn’t find them to be price gouging.  A dinner for two with several beers a piece cost about $20US (beers were about half that total price).

What to Do

Wandering around the hiking trails through the jungle trying to find that perfect beach is about the best way to spend your days in Tayrona.  If you’re lucky enough, you may find that perfect, uninhabited beach to spend your day.  Keep in mind that if you come to Tayrona during high season, it will be a completely different experience than visiting during shoulder or low season.  It can get extremely crowded and won’t be the pristine, relaxing place that it can be during other times of the year.

La Piscina- Located in between Cabo Beach and Arrecifes, La Piscina is an area of water surrounded buy huge rocks, creating a shallow, calm, crystal clear swimming pool.  A great place to spend some time lounging and swimming in beautiful water.

Pueblito- About 1.5-2 hours hike from Cabo, Pueblito is an archaeological site that is worth a visit if lounging on the beach all day isn’t your thing.  There are indigenous people at Pueblito, so use caution and common sense when whipping out your camera.