Arequipa

Plaza de Armas in the center of Arequipa, Peru

Overview

A beautiful colonial city set at the foot of the white-capped volcano, El Misti, should be a definite stop on any visit to Peru.  Most of the buildings in Arequipa are built of sillar, a white, volcanic rock, that makes the entire city glow at certain times of the day.  It’s a spectacular city to just wander and get lost in, with great food, friendly people, and unique attractions.  If adventure and trekking is up your alley, then Arequipa is a great base to visit two of the deepest canyons in world, Colca and Cotahuasi.  Many hostels can arrange trips for you, but make sure to shop around for the best price and itinerary.  We trekked Colca Canyon in preparation for our Inca Trail hike to Machu Picchu, so be sure to visit the Colca Canyon page to find out more.

Getting There/Arriving

Airplane- The airport is about 4.5 miles (7km) from the city center.  There are daily flights to and from Lima.  Taxis are cheap in Arequipa, but remember that they do NOT use a meter, so negotiate a fare before getting in and taking off.

Bus- The main bus terminal is a short taxi ride south of the city center.  You can take a colectivo (small bus) or a taxi.  A taxi to the city center should only cost about 3 soles (about $1US).

Getting Around

The main sites in Arequipa are based around the Plaza de Armas, and all are within walking distance of one another.  Arequipa is a great city to walk in, but be aware of the altitude.  It sits at 7800 feet (2380 meters), so if you’re not used to altitude, you will find yourself short of breath and tired the first few days.  Make sure to hydrate and rest when needed.

Taxis- If you plan on visiting the suburbs, take a bus or taxi.  Remember that taxis are pretty cheap, but like everywhere in Peru, there are no meters.  We never had any problems with taxi drivers trying to rip us off; they were always fair, you just have to negotiate a price before getting in.  Very little English is spoken amongst the cab drivers in most of Peru, so knowing some elementary Spanish is very helpful.

Where to Stay

The main areas of interest in Arequipa are in a relatively small area, and most of the hostels and hotels are clustered around this area.  The Plaza de Armas is the center of activity, and most accommodations are within a mile or so of it.

Where we Stayed- We stayed in two different places during our time in Arequipa.  We booked a room at the Home Sweet Home hostel before we left Lima since we took an overnight bus, and it was our first overnight bus journey of the trip.  Arequipa would have been a perfect place to just show up and wander until you found the right place for you though.

Home Sweet Home Hostel- We read great things about Home Sweet Home, particularly their friendliness, and I’m not sure if we were just there at the wrong time or it has changed, but the staff was not very friendly at all, and they seemed almost annoyed at times when we inquired about different things.  The cost was $20US for a private, double room with bathroom, shower, and a hot breakfast.  Read more in depth information on the Home Sweet Home review post.

La Casa Blanca- We came back to Arequipa after our Colca Canyon trek and stayed one more night at Home Sweet Home because we booked our trek through them.  After getting stuck in Arequipa because of a bus strike, we decided to move and came across this gem of a place.  I can’t recommend La Casa Blanca enough as it was one of the nicer places we stayed, and it was worth the extra money.  We paid $27US for a double room (which was really nice and spacious) with private bath, shower, and a hot breakfast.  There is more in depth information on the La Casa Blanca review post.

Food and Drink

We were quite impressed with the culinary options in Arequipa, as there was a wide variety of tasty trets to choose from, all at a pretty affordable price.

Street Food- After avoiding any kind of street food in Lima, we braved it for the first time in Arequipa.  There were plenty of people selling random treats all over the streets of Arequipa, so if you want to eat on the cheap, it’s possible to do so here.  Papas rellenas (a deep fried mashed potato ball filled with veggies, egg, and sometimes meat) and tamales were our go-to lunch snacks on many days.  You can find either at many street stalls, both for under a dollar.

Cheap Options- If you’re a backpacker on a tight budget, you can’t go wrong with some of the above mentioned street food.  Another option for cheap eats is heading to a Chifa, or Chinese restaurant, which are everywhere in Arequipa.  Most of what you’ll find is similar to Chinese menu’s at home (unless home is China or elsewhere in Asia), and a meal can usually be had for a few dollars.  It’s also advisable to look for local hole in the wall type restaurants filled with locals.  You can usually get the comedores populares, which is a three course meal, usually served with a soup, some type of protein (typically chicken), and rice, beans, and/or french fries.  Cheap, local Peruvian food is almost always served with rice and fries.

Food from Around the World- As stated above, we were surprised to find so many options in Arequipa, from Mexican to Middle Eastern, and most dishes we had were excellent.  Our two favorite places were Fez and Tacos y Tequila.

• Fez- Fez is a Middle Eastern restaurant that we went to several times during our stay in Arequipa.  It’s a nice little spot with a cool little patio out back.  The inside is small and has some seating, but the food was the reason we kept coming back, the falafel in particular.  Everything we tried here was really good and really cheap, so if you’re into Middle Eastern food, give Fe a try.
• Tacos y Tequila- If it’s one type of cuisine that we really love, it’s Mexican.  We were shocked to find out that most of South America simply does not serve Mexican cuisine, and if they do, it wasn’t exactly what we were used to (which, admittedly, is an Americanized version of it).  Tacos y Tequila, while not the most authentic of places, still served some pretty good Mexican food and strong margaritas.  So if you’re fiending for some tacos or burritos or fajitas and a nice, stiff margarita, this place will not disappoint.

Things to Do

Museums- One of the top memories from our time spent in Arequipa was our visit to Monasterio de Santa Catalina.  This convent is a spectacular site, a city within a city, which was closed off entirely from the public for 400 years before being opened up in 1970.  The remaining nuns still live in a section of the convent, but it is now open to the public.  It’s open every day and one night a week.  If possible, try to visit at night as it adds to the mystique of the place.  Be sure to read more about this experience on the Monasterio de Santa Catalina post.

Churches- The massive Cathedral Basilica on one side of the Plaza de Armas is definitely worth a visit.  This monstrosity is almost 400 years old, but parts have been refurbished and rebuilt because of earthquakes in the region.  It is open to the public when no services are going on, and it is free of charge.

The Church of San Francisco, near Monasterio de Santa Catalina, is also worth a visit, as is La Iglesia de Compania (only open Monday-Friday from 9-11:30am with a cost of about $0.70US) and the Franciscan monastery La Recoleta (open Mon-Sat 9am-12pm and 3-5pm), located on the other side of the river.

Squares- As with many other South American cities, the heart of the action is in and around the Plaza de Armas.  Beautiful buildings, most made of the pearly white sillar, dominate the perimeter of Plaza de Armas, with the Cathedral standing out amongst a plethora of great architecture.  A massive fountain is in the middle, with pigeons, tourists, and vendors taking up most other space in the square.  Everyone seemed friendly and chatty every time we visited or walked through Plaza de Armas, and it’s a wonderful place to people watch, read a book, sit and relax, or get a chance to chat with a wide variety of people, from locals to vacationing Peruvians to backpackers and other travelers.

Hiking/Trekking

El Misti/Chachani-Climbing nearby El Misti (19,000 feet/5800 meters) and Chachani (19,800 feet/6057 meters) is possible.  Both can be climbed without a guide, but it is necessary to register with the police before doing so.  The altitude of both is nothing to mess with, so go prepared with plenty of water, food, and protection agains the elements.  Both are multiple day treks.

Colca Canyon-Visiting Colca is advisable for any fan of the outdoors, whether it’s for a trek or to spot the famous condor, one of the largest birds in the world.  Travelers have many options for visiting Colca, from a bus trip around the rim of canyon to a multi-day trek into the canyon, where people still live in small little villages.  We chose a three day trek that we arranged through our first hostel, Home Sweet Home.  It was a great experience and fantastic preparation for our upcoming Inca Trail hike to Machu Picchu.  Be sure to read the full story, complete with tons of pictures, on the Colca Canyon page.