Lima

Plaza de San Martin, Lima, Peru

Overview

Peru’s capital city doesn’t get a whole lot of love from most travelers.  Many say it’s just another huge, Latin metropolis that offers nothing special.  While it’s true that Lima is a huge, Latin metropolis, it’s also true travelers have plenty of special things to enjoy.  As always, food and drink play a huge part in our opinions of a place, and Lima has some top notch local specialties with fresh ceviche to eat and pisco sours to sip on.  Friendly people, impressive architecture, rugged coastline, and plenty of action await you in in a city deserving of more attention.

Getting there/Arriving

Airplane-If you’re flying in, whether from elsewhere in South America or around the world, Jorge Chavez Airport is where you’ll arrive.  It’s about 10 miles (16km) from the Plaza de Armas, which is in the city center.  There are plenty of taxis to take take you to your hotel/hostel, and the public bus is an option as well.  If you book accommodation in advance, they may offer to come pick you up for about $15.  Cabs are a bit cheaper, while a public bus is your cheapest option.

Bus-If arriving by bus, you will most likely arrive at a station on Av Carlos Zavala.  Most of the major bus companies have their terminals there.  The area is a bit sketchy, so take a taxi to your hostel or hotel or to the area you plan to stay.  We walked to a bus station in this area, and we felt rather vulnerable.  Nothing happened, but it was just one of those feelings.  We later read the area is not always the safest, so be aware.  Always do your homework and use common sense.  You will hear stories about tourists getting mugged in Lima.  Just remember that this happens in every major city in the world, from Lima to New York to Los Angeles to Amsterdam to London to Bangkok to Sydney.  Use caution here like you would any other big, metropolitan city.

Getting Around

Lima is a sprawling city of over 8 million people, so you’re going to have to utilize some public transport to get around and see the sites.

Taxis- Taxis are the easiest option, but also most expensive.  Lima’s taxis do not use meters, so agree on a price before getting in.  Most cab drivers don’t speak English, so brush up on your Spanish.  Taxis are relatively inexpensive, but if you want a more interesting experience, travel with the locals on the public buses.

Buses-I highly recommend the buses in Lima.  They are a bitch to figure out (we never quite got it down pat), but it’s crazy cheap and highly entertaining.  Most are small minibuses, and neighborhood and street names are painted down the sides and on the front windshield.  Ignore these.  They mean nothing, and if you assume the street name on the windshield is the destination, you will end up in the wrong place.  The best part about taking the bus is the other employee who is not the driver.  I’m not sure what his proper title is, but let’s call him the screamer.  He hangs out the door and shouts the street names and areas the bus is heading.  That’s what you have to pay attention to, and that’s who tells you where you’re going.  Knowing some Spanish is helpful, and the screamer (or another passenger, most locals were quite friendly) will be more than willing to let you know if you’re on the right bus and will tell you when to get off.  It’s also a fraction of the price compared to a taxi.

Where To Stay

There are several areas of interest/neighborhoods in Lima, and all have a variety of places to sleep for the evening.  Miraflores, San Isidro, and Barranco are the most popular places to stay when visiting Lima.  They are about 20-40 minutes outside the city center and all offer something a little different.

Miraflores- Miraflores has a great mix of accommodations, and there is a lot packed into a small area.  It’s easy and safe to walk around at nearly any time, while also being in a prime location on the coast.  The Peruvian coast offers activities like surfing and volleyball during summer (Dec-April), but the waters aren’t very safe for swimming, so go at your own risk.

San Isidro- San Isidro is the nicest district, so if your budget is a bit higher or you’re in the mood for a splurge, check out the options here.

Barranco- Barranco is a little further out from Miraflores, and has more of an artsy feel to it.  Barranco is also home to a great nightlife, so if partying and dancing are your thing, this is your place.  It is also located in the coast.

Central Lima- The city center has many sites to see, centered around the Plaza de Armas, but it’s not the safest area at nighttime, so you may want to think about staying in an outlying neighborhood.  There are hostels and hotels available in the city center if you are strapped for time, but again, just use common sense and exercise some caution.

Where we stayed

We wanted a good mix of options, and Lima was the city we started our RTW in, so we booked a room in Miraflores before we arrived.  If booking in advance is not your style, and you’ll be getting to town during the day, it wouldn’t be difficult to take a taxi to any of the above neighborhoods and walk around and explore until you find the right place.

We settled on a place called Albergue Verde.  It cost $25US/night for a private double room with bathroom (including breakfast).  It wasn’t the nicest, biggest, or cleanest, but the owner, Arturo, was simply outstanding, and he made the stay worth it.  Check out this post for a more in depth review of the Albergue Verde.

Food and Drink

Local food- Local Peruvian food and drink can be summed up in three words: Ceviche and Pisco Sours.  If you’re a fan of seafood and have never tried ceviche before, Peru is the place to try it.  Ceviche is any variety of seafood marinated and “cooked” in citrus.  It’s not traditionally cooked over a fire, but the acidity in the citrus “cooks” the seafood, giving it a unique and very flavorful taste and texture.  Usually some type of chili pepper or heat is added, along with some onion, salt, and pepper.  It’s served all over Lima (and Peru for that matter), and each place uses different types of fish, citrus, and seasonings, making the taste unique and different each time you have it.

Most other types of Peruvian food revolve around rice and beans.  Any local restaurant you stumble into will have many different items to choose from.  Lunch specials usually come with a ceviche for an appetizer, then some type of fish or chicken, served with rice, beans, and fries.  There are plenty of markets in Lima, but being the first city on our RTW, we were not brave enough yet to try any market food.  Various parks and squares around the city have food carts set up as well, selling anything from chicken sandwiches to popcorn to churros.

If you’re a drinker, then Pisco Sours are the Peruvian cocktail to try.  Pisco is a liquor distilled from grapes, and it’s combined with lemon or lime juice, simple syrup, egg whites (that’s right, egg whites!), and some type of bitter, depending on where it’s made.  Pisco Sours are also served in Bolivia and Chile, but their origin is Peruvian (named after the town, Pisco, on the Peruvian coast), and the best ones are made in Peru.  Be sure to try one (or ten) during your visit to Peru.

Western food- As with most major metropolitan cities in the world, western food is readily available, so if you’re craving something from home, most American staples are available, including McDonald’s, KFC, and Starbucks.  I always urge any traveler to try the local cuisine.  There is almost always something for everyone, and it’s usually at a fraction of the price.

Things to Do

Markets- We totally ripped this from Anthony Bourdain, which I’m fine with as we both love his shows and books, so when he gives travel and food advice, we listen.  One thing he’s always said is that the best way to really get a feel for new city or town is to visit a local market.  One of the first things we did in Lima was visit a market in Miraflores on Av Petit Thouars.  We didn’t buy anything, we didn’t eat anything, we just wandered.  This became a favorite activity of ours during our travels, and now it’s something we always incorporate into any trip.

Museums-Admittedly, museums aren’t typically my thing.  I’ll go, but it’s never tops on my list, and I’m not one to linger for hours.  We did check out the Museo de la Nacion, located in the Banco de la Nacion building, while in Lima, and it was quite interesting.  It focuses on both art and the history of the aboriginal races in Peru.  It also has rotating exhibits, and when we were there, we spent most of our time in the Shining Path exhibit, which was eye-opening, educational, and quite entertaining.

Churches- South American is chock full of Roman Catholic churches, and whether or not you’re Catholic or what your views are on Catholicism, there is no denying the beauty of their churches.  Some were built hundreds of years ago, and many are simply gorgeous.  Just strolling around, viewing, and photographing the various churches around Lima is a fun activity.  Be sure to see the Iglesia de San Francisco near the Plaza de Armas in the city center.  You may also want to head to the Parroquia la Virgen Milagrosa near Parque Kennedy in Miraflores.

Parks and Squares-One thing I wish North American cities would embrace is the idea of the square.  A huge, open, common space, typically surrounded by beautiful buildings, restaurants, bars, sometimes with fountains, always with food carts.  Squares in South American are a great place to go to chill out, relax, people watch, read a book, or take pictures.  They’re usually very well taken care of, have tons of interesting people to chat with and meet, and they’re just pleasant places to go to.  The Plaza de Armas and Plaza de San Martin in the city center are just a few of these massive squares, and you’re sure to find some entertainment when visiting.

Sometimes it’s tough finding green space in massive cities like Lima, but Miraflores has a gorgeous park, Parque Central, right in the center of it all.  Food carts, teenagers making out, older folks dancing, this place had plenty to keep you occupied.