Puno

The boat ride out to the Uros Islands was quite nice with great views

Overview

Writing a guide about a city we weren’t fond of isn’t the easiest thing in the world to do.  While we have certainly been to worse places than Puno, there was just something about it that was frustrating.  The city has potential, and I think that’s what we found to be so maddening about the place.  Puno is in a very nice setting right on Lake Titicaca, it had some pretty good food, but we just weren’t feeling it during our time there.

Maybe it’s because we got stranded (again) because of transportation strikes, maybe it’s because Megan was sick during part of our time, maybe it’s because the city was dirty and stinky (though we came across many dirty, stinky cities during our travels that we enjoyed just fine).  Whatever it was, we didn’t like Puno, but you may find yourself here one day, whether it’s to see the tourist trap Uros floating islands or as a stopover to Bolivia, so I owe it to you, dear reader, to guide you through the ups and downs of Puno, Peru.

Getting There/Arriving

Bus: There is no airport in Puno, so you will be arriving by bus.  Travelers will most likely arrive at Terminal Terrestre, southeast of the city center.  It’s a large bus station with plenty of places to pick up a bite to eat or snacks for an upcoming bus ride.  There are daily buses to Arequipa, Lima, Cusco, and across the border to Bolivia.  You may have to take a separate bus to nearby Juliaca first, then switch buses to your final destination.  It is a quick, cheap, and easy taxi ride from the bus station to the center of Puno.

Getting Around

Taxi: Puno is pretty small and walkable, but there are taxis everywhere should you need/want a ride.  As with the rest of Peru, there are no meters, so agree on a price first.

Bike Taxis: There are also little bike taxis that go around Puno and to and from the city center to the shores of Lake Titicaca.  These are obviously negotiable, but keep in mind that these guys work their asses off.  Honestly you should pay a bit more than a regular taxi.  It is easily walkable to get the shore of the lake, but we did give in and take a bike taxi back up to the city center one day (it’s all a gradual uphill from the lake to the center).  We sat and bargained and bargained with the guy before we took off, then we felt bad by the time we got to our hostel and the poor guy was huffing and puffing and sweating his ass off, so we paid him double what we agreed (which came to about $2US).  Sometimes you lose perspective, so keep in mind that these guys make virtually nothing for a living, so an extra dollar really is appreciated.

Where to Stay

Puno is a pretty small place, and all hostels and hotels are clustered around one main area.  It’s quite easy to walk around and check places out until you find the right fit for you.  Puno was the cheapest place we visited in Peru as well, so keep that in mind.  It’s also a bit dirtier and just not quite as nice as other cities we visited.

Where we Stayed

As I stated above, Puno is super small and really easy to walk around and find a place that is right for you.  We ended up at Hospedaje Residencial Margarita.  It cost $16.75US for a private double with private bath/shower and included a hot breakfast.  It was a fine place to stay and a good deal.  For more detailed information, check out the review of this hostel.

Food and Drink

The one big positive about Puno was the food.  We had some fantastic food during our time here, and with its proximity to the lake, fish is king here.  Make sure to try trucha (trout) as it is fresh from Lake Titicaca, prepared many different ways, and can be had for pretty cheap.

Street food- As you know by now, street food is high on our list when eating while traveling.  You can usually find some great food for a great price.  Puno had a wealth of booths set up near the lake, all serving pretty much the same thing–fish fresh from Lake Titicaca.  You could typically get it fried or grilled, and it was served with fries and rice (as is most things in Peru), all for a few dollars.

Restaurants- There were plenty of great eats in Puno, and you don’t have to break the bank to get some good, quality food.  Here’s a sampling of some of our favorites:

• Internacional- This place reminded me of a diner back home, at least as far as setup and decor.  They had plenty of fish served many different ways, and the trout we both had was fantastic.  They also had cheap beer and really good desserts, so be sure to check it out.  It was a little more than we typically spend on a meal, but it was well worth it, and it was still very cheap compared to what we’re used to back home.
• Lago de Flores- We actually passed through Puno twice, once on our way from Arequipa to Cusco, and this place is where we killed time waiting for our second bus.  We returned again when we stayed in Puno for a few days, and Lago de Flores was definitely worth a return trip.  The pizzas are fantastic, the pastas were really good, and the coffee drinks were spectacular as well.  If the great food wasn’t enough, then the ambiance and set-up put it over the top.  There was a nice wood-burning oven in the dining area (also where the pizzas were cooked), so it was nice and toasty in there and was just a good place to have nice, long, leisurely meal.
• Ricos’ Pan- Another great place for good coffee and hot drinks.  The sweets here were also excellent.  If you’re looking for a place to have some dessert, coffee, and a mid-afternoon break (or if your hostel doesn’t serve breakfast), then this is your place.

Other options- The fried chicken and Chinese food phenomenon hit Puno as well as there are several places for each.  You will surprisingly find a lot of locals here, which means the prices are cheap.  So if you’re looking for a cheap meal and for something a little more familiar to home, you can waltz in to any of the restaurants advertising chifa (Chinese food) or pollo (chicken).

Things to Do

The majority of people who come to Puno come for Lake Titicaca and a tour of the islands.  Other than the lake, the town doesn’t have much to offer, which is disappointing.  The lake from the Peruvian side is also disappointing, and I highly recommend heading over to Bolivia and spending some time in Copacabana seeing Lake Titicaca.  It doesn’t even look like it’s the same lake from the Bolivian side.  The Uros Islands themselves are worth seeing because of how they are built, but other than that, they are nothing more than floating souvenir stands.

Uros Islands- The Uros, or floating islands, are impressive since they are built out of reeds, which they also use for building their boats and houses.  Seeing the floating, man-made islands is impressive, as is walking on them, but the tours sold on the shores of Puno are not worth an entire day trip.  Simply seeing them from the boat and being able to get out on one of the islands would have sufficed, but we were then ferried around from island to island, which were nothing more than stalls set up selling souvenirs.  The people who live on the Uros are very poor, and trying to make a few extra bucks from tourism is understandable, but the way they go about it is simply annoying, and while I wouldn’t consider it a wasted day, I also wouldn’t say our trip to the Uros was a memorable one.  The cost was only $10US (total, for both of us), so it’s worth it simply to see them, but know what you’re getting into before going.

Other island adventures- We only spent time at the Uros Islands because they sounded most fascinating to us and we were just biding our time in Puno until the bus strike ended and we could continue on to Bolivia.  There are other options as well, some with Incan ruins and some with overnight stays possible, so check into other options if you plan to be in Puno more than a day or two.  Taquile, Amantani, Anapia, and Yuspique are all islands on Lake Titicaca that can be visited.  Some can be visited independently instead of going with a tour group.  Be sure to visit Puno’s friendly and informative tourist office for more information.

Festivals- Any time a festival pops up while traveling is a good thing in my book.  Many people plan their trips around festivals as it’s a great way to really dive into the local culture.  I mentioned earlier that we had a short stopover in Puno on our way from Arequipa to Cusco, and while we were there for the afternoon and evening, we were lucky enough to stumble on to a festival/parade of sorts going through the streets of Puno.  We later found out that this is not abnormal in Puno as it is a capital for Peru’s folklore.  We were both annoyed at being stranded for a while in Puno as we just wanted to move on, but the parade we saw, with dancing and singing on the streets, lifted our spirits.  So pay attention to the festival schedule, and if you’re in Puno and hear some music and noise, seek it out and see what’s going on.

*  Creative Commons license-by nicolasnova