Laos

Overview

After being off the tourist radar for so long, Laos is quickly becoming that next great destination for budget travelers in Southeast Asia.  A country that has been pounded by war and still seeing the effects, this sleepy country is drop dead gorgeous.  Laos has lots to offer for those looking to get off the beaten path a bit.  Don’t wait too long, though, as the rest of the world is catching on, and it won’t be long before Laos is just as popular as neighboring Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam.

Wat Pa Phai in Luang Prabang

Highlights/What to Do

Luang Prabang- An absolutely breathtaking city set on the Mekong, travelers can easily spend a week in Luang Prabang.  This Unesco World Heritage Site has wats, a bustling night market, great food, and plenty of activities just a day trip away.  Be sure to check out Big Brother Mouse, a fantastic organization helping bring books to young Laotian children.

Vientiane- The capital of Laos really shows the French influence left over from their time ruling this nation, from the architecture to the food.  The Morning Market and Buddha Park are two of the highlights of visiting Vientiane, as is simply sitting on near the Mekong, chilling, and drinking some Beer Lao.

Vang Vieng- This backpacking mecca is a highlight, especially for the younger crowd.  Each day a massive group of drunken travelers takes to the river armed with nothing but a tube and foggy head.  The town itself is rather wretched and shows all the negatives of what western tourism can bring, but the surrounding beauty is undeniable.  If you’re a climber, there aren’t many places in the world more beautiful to climb.

Luang Nam Tha- If you’re looking for hiking and trekking, Luang Nam Tha is your home base.  Nearby Nam Ha NP is the setting for these outdoor adventures.  While Laos is trying to bring responsible ecotourism to the area, make sure to do your homework before taking off with a tour group.  It would be a shame for this pristine area to get ruined by irresponsible tourism.

Gibbon Experience- If it’s one thing I really wish we would have bucked up for on our trip, it’s the Gibbon Experience.  Headquartered in the Laos-Thai border town of Huay Xai, the Gibbon Experience sends travelers out to the Bokeo Nature Reserve and a city of tree-houses connected by zip lines.  Not for the feint of heart.

Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands)- Set in the Mekong River, Si Phan Don is a series of islands and sandbars.  Travelers come here to relax and take in the natural beauty of the area.  Depending on whether or not this is your thing, relaxation may be enhanced by the aid of some illegal narcotics.

Budget

Laos is definitely one of the cheapest places to visit in a region chock full of cheap travel destinations.  We got by on about $50US/day total for the two of us.  Everything is cheap in Laos, from meals at markets and street carts for less than a dollar to private rooms with a/c for about $10-$15, Laos is a budget travelers dream.

When to Go/Weather

Cloudy morning weather over the Mekong in Luang Prabang

Like much of the rest of Southeast Asia, weather in Laos is characterized by two distinct seasons.  The wet season is from May to October and the dry season from November to April.  November to January sees the coolest temperatures of the year while March to May the hottest, particularly in the south.  The mountains in the north can see freezing temperatures in parts of the year.  Typical of the rest of the region, rainy season usually only sees an hour or two of rain a day while being hot and steamy the rest of the time.

Transportation

Even though Laos is quickly catching up to other countries in the area when it comes to tourism, the transportation still has a ways to go.  Rivaled in uncomfortableness only by Bolivia and parts of India, transortation in Laos leave much to be desired.

Typical bus in Laos

Bus- Buses are the cheapest way to get around Laos, but they are not comfortable.  Usually of the minibus variety, when you hop on one in Laos, expect to drive around whatever city you’re leaving from until the bus is completely full.  They pack ‘em in here in Laos, and they can and will put more people than seats in a bus.  Expect chickens, durian, and maybe even a few dead squirrels to accompany you along the way (more on that in another post).  If you plan on traveling overland from Laos to Vietnam, particularly northern Vietnam, be ready for a long, uncomfortable, and possibly frustrating journey.

Train- You can catch a train from Vientiane back into Thailand and vice versa, but rail travel is not prevalent throughout most of the rest of the country.

Boat- River travel is still used throughout Laos though not nearly as often since their highway system has been getting upgraded with each passing year.  The famed 2 day slow boat trip from the Thai-Laos border down to Luang Prabang is still popular, and we were at first bummed about not taking it.  Then we talked to some people who did take it, and it didn’t sound like a very comfortable journey.

Air- Lao Airlines is the domestic carrier for Laos, but they are said to have a suspect safety record and aren’t the most reliable.  Not exactly what I would want out of an airline.

Be sure to check back in the coming weeks and months as I will put up more and more posts and pages about traveling in Laos, including city pages for all places we visited, plus various tips and advice for traveling around this beautiful country.  When a post or page is published, the links below will be live, exactly like the Peru, Bolivia, and Argentina pages.

Am I the Only Traveler Who Thinks Laos is Overrated?
Luang Nam Tha
What to Expect from Bus Travel in Laos
Luang Prabang
Big Brother Mouse
Vang Vieng
Vientiane