Hanoi

Courtyard of Sages in the Temple of Literature

Overview

The Vietnamese capital of Hanoi is chaotic.  There is simply no getting around that.  The traffic is bonkers and the tiny, narrow streets with limited sidewalk room don’t help.  But that chaos and energy is also part of what makes Hanoi special.  A city steeped in history, and one that recently celebrated its one-thousandth birthday, has plenty to offer all travelers.

Getting There/Arriving

Air- Noi Bai Airport is about 21 miles (35 km.) outside of the Old Quarter, the main center for action in Hanoi.  Taking a minibus is your cheapest option (about $3.50US/person) for getting into town.  Beware that they will try to get you to stay in a hostel/guesthouse of their choosing, so if you already have reservations somewhere, be firm when asking to take you there. Taxis are easier and quicker, but obviously cost more.

Bus- If coming from Laos, Thailand, or from the south of Vietnam, you can be dropped in any manner of places in town, depending on which bus company you use.  Taking a motorbike taxi is probably the cheapest and easiest option for getting into the center of town.  The same as above applies if you already have a reservation somewhere.

Train- If arriving in Hanoi by train, you can usually walk from one of the three central train stations to the center of town in about 15-20 minutes.  If tired and loaded down with luggage, though, hop in a taxi or on the back of a motorbike taxi for quick, cheap ride.

Getting Around

Walking- If you’re staying in or near the Old Quarter, you don’t need much more than your own two feet to get around most areas.  If this is your first stop in Vietnam, be careful as walking can be difficult and dangerous.  There is a science to walking and crossing the street in Vietnam.  Traffic will NOT stop for you, but once you get the hang of it, you will be OK.  Watch the locals do it first.

Motorbike Taxis- Motorbike taxis are one of the easiest ways to get around not only in Hanoi but also all over the country of Vietnam.  They are pretty cheap, but make sure you agree on a price before hopping on.

Taxis- Like most places in the world, taxi drivers will try to pull one over on you, so either make sure they use the meter or agree on a fixed price before hopping in and taking off.

Where to Stay

The most logical place to stay when visiting Hanoi, and the area where most budget accommodations lie, are in and around the Old Quarter near Hoan Kien Lake.  You can’t miss the lake as it is huge and sits right in the middle of the city, with paths and green areas all around it.  If you don’t have a reservation anywhere before arriving, then just have the driver drop you off at the lake or right around it.  On P Hang Boc, just north of the lake, and near St. Joseph’s Cathedral, just west of the lake, have the largest number of budget accommodations.

Where we stayed-  We reserved a room at Especen Hotel just west of Hoan Kien Lake.  The room was quite large, nice, and clean, and it had air conditioning, free wi-fi, and cable television.  The staff was pretty nice though a bit pushy when it came to booking tours in Ha Long Bay (though we found out everyone’s pushy when it comes to Ha Long Bay tours).  A standard double room with a queen bed costs $20US/night while a double with a king costs $24.

Food and Drink

It’s no secret that Vietnamese food is among my favorite cuisines.  We are fortunate enough to live in a city that has a fairly large Vietnamese population and thus, some fantastic Vietnamese restaurants, so we were more than excited when our plane touched down in Hanoi from Bangkok.

Food

Street food is king in Southeast Asia, so just wandering the streets looking for markets or street carts selling all manner of food is the best way to choose your meals.  One of the most popular dishes, Pho Bo, a beef noodle soup, is traditionally served for breakfast.  The best versions are sold in little alleyways all around the city, so just look for little makeshift kitchens, large crowds, and tiny tables and plastic chairs.  A steaming bowl of pho can be had for about a dollar.

If you want to eat out, there’s plenty of great restaurants as well.  Here are a few we visited:

Pho- If you are a bit leery of eating street food (though you really shouldn’t be–it’s great and safe!), you can do the next best thing and head to the aptly named Pho just a few blocks west of the lake.  Serving, you guessed it, nothing but pho, they do it right and have a variety of soups to choose from.  A great place filled with locals and easy on the wallet.

Cha Ca La Vong- This place is in all the guidebooks and serves only one dish.  Expect big crowds, a small space, and a surly staff.  Head upstairs for that one dish, cha ca,  which is fish that is grilled with turmeric and dill right on your table, and it’s served with cold noodles and peanuts.

Tamarind Cafe- If you’re vegetarian and looking for a really nice meal, head over to Tamarind Cafe for some spectacular and unique dishes.

KOTO- We didn’t eat a meal here, only a few drinks and an appetizer, but if you’re looking for a place to eat while also supporting an amazing cause, then KOTO is the place to go.  Meaning Know One, Teach One, KOTO provides street and disadvantaged youth the opportunity to learn a craft and career.  The youth who work at KOTO are all given a unique opportunity to turn their lives around, and the vast majority grasp that opportunity and put forth a 110% effort.  It’s a great cause and they also serve fantastic food, so be sure to check it out.  It’s very close to the Temple of Literature.

Drinks

If you like Vietnamese Iced Coffee, then be sure to pop in any of the various coffee shops located all around Hanoi.  Tiny open air areas with even tinier tables and plastic chairs, the Vietnamese version of coffee shops are a great place to sit and rest while getting a jolt of caffeine and sugar.  If you’ve never had Vietnamese iced coffee before, then prepare for a super strong, super flavorful, and super sweet version that will have you buzzing around the city in no time.

If you enjoy a nice, frosty cold one here and there, then make sure you stop at the other open air areas when you see a sign that reads Bia Hoi.  Bia Hoi is the homemade beer that is made all over the country and sold for the bargain price of about 25 cents a glass.  If you see a group of people, typically Vietnamese men and tourists, sitting around small plastic tables on tiny plastic chairs while sipping brew out of a little glass, with two liters littering the table, then you’ve found the right place.

Things to Do

Ha Long Bay Tour- If there’s one thing you must do while in northern Vietnam, it’s go see the spectacular Ha Long Bay.  Hanoi is the headquarters for tours to Ha Long Bay, and there’s a lot that goes into picking the right tour, so make sure you check back soon for my Guide to Visiting to Ha Long Bay.

Hoan Kiem Lake- While most travelers, especially of the backpacker variety, don’t particularly enjoy getting up at dawn, it’s worth it at least once to go to Hoan Kiem Lake with what seems like the entire city of Hanoi.  We took a few jogs around the lake early in the morning to beat the heat, and we were greeted by massive crowds of Vietnamese.  Some were just walking, some were sitting and enjoying the cooler weather, some were doing Tai Chi, but Hoan Kiem Lake was the place to be before setting off to work.

Ngoc Son Temple- This temple is on an island in the northern part of the lake and is a great spot to relax, meditate, and get away from the chaos of the city.

Temple of Literature- The country’s first national university, the Temple of Literature is a gorgeous place to visit.  Five courtyards are in the grounds, which include a reflecting pool, and a giant, ornate pavilion.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex-  Hanoi is the final resting place of the famous Ho Chi Minh.  Closed between September and December, the mausoleum is rather strict for visitors.  You are not allowed to take in cameras or bags and you must register before entering.  No shorts, tank tops, or indecent clothing.  There are several other sites in the complex like the Dien Huu Pagoda, the Ho Chi Minh Museum, and the Presidential Palace.

*picture from permanently scatterbrained