This post is part one of a FOUR part series entitled THE Definitive Guide to Hiking Torres del Paine.
Torres del Paine-The Hiking Mecca of Patagonia
A big part of our RTW trip, particularly in South America, was built around hiking and trekking. We hiked the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, Colca Canyon in Peru, and various hikes in and around El Chalten. All were in preparation for our biggest trek yet, hiking the “W” in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine (TDP) in the Patagonia region of Chile.
In addition to being drop dead gorgeous, one of the other main appeals of hiking in TDP is that all hikers and trekkers can do it independently if they want. Sure, you can sign on with an expensive tour, but it’s unnecessary. Going at it without a guided tour is highly recommended so you can go at your own pace, take the route that’s right for you, and have a multitude of choices along the way.
TIP #1: This post will be littered with different costs for hiking the “W”. I will summarize them all at the end of the last post, so all prices will be broken down in one nice, neat place.
TIP #2: When planning your trip to TDP, make sure you schedule AT LEAST ONE, if not TWO, days in Puerto Natales. On your first day there, make sure you attend the FREE INFORMATIONAL MEETING at the Erratic Rock hostel at 3pm EVERY SINGLE DAY. Seriously, if you take any advice from this post, take this one. The meeting is chock full of EVERYTHING you need to know about hiking the W or the Circuit, and it’s FREE. Why would you not go?
TIP #3: Check out this map–it’s one of the better ones I’ve found, and if you keep it open in another tab while reading this post, it will be easier to follow along and plan.
Hiking the “W” or El Circuito?
Views from Day 1 of the W Trek
Torres del Paine has it all-Glaciers being one...
This is the first question you must ask yourself when heading to TDP for a multi-day trek. If you’re not a hard core hiker, let me suggest the shorter “W” trek. While we aren’t accomplished hikers, we have done our fair share of longer treks, and the “W” was more than enough of a challenge for us.
- The “W” Trek- Allow 4-5 days for trekking the “W.” It is named the “W” because the shape of the trail resembles a “W.”
- Trekking the “W” or the full circuit has it’s pros and cons.
- The “W” is shorter- The “W” is at least 2 days shorter than hiking the full circuit, but depending on your fitness level, the full circuit could take twice as long.
- Options- Hikers and trekkers have options for hiking the “W,” as far as where to start and end and how long to take. You can try to fly through it in 3-4 days or really take your time and do it in 5-7 days (more on this later in the post).
- No tent necessary- There are refugios, which are hostel type accommodations, along the “W” trail, allowing you to sleep in a bed under a roof and not carry a tent. These are more expensive though (more information about camping vs. refugios Wednesday).
- More crowded- The W is shorter and draws all types of people, so the trails are more crowded. NOTE: While I have read complaints about the overcrowdedness of the “W,” we hiked it during high season and found it to be fine. Sure, you’re not isolated the whole time (though there were plenty of times we didn’t see another person around us), but it’s not like walking around Times Square either.
- El Circuito- El Circuito is a little more hardcore, and most hikers complete it about 7-10 days. This circuit goes around the Torres and Cuernos del Paine, and it is typically done counterclockwise, starting from Laguna Amarga guarderia.
NOTE: The rest of the post will deal with hiking the “W” as this is what we hiked. The “W” is part of the circuit, so much of the information will still be applicable.
Which route to take
...mountains being another
So you’ve decided to hike the “W” and now it’s time to decide which way to go. Basically, you have two choices on where to begin.
- The traditional way is east to west, starting at the main lodge, Refugio Las Torres. You take the bus from Puerto Natales then take a minibus up to the lodge from the park entrance (more specific transport information Thursday).
- The opposite route is becoming more popular, however, hiking from west to east. On this route, you take the same bus from Puerto Natales but take it further into the park, all the way to the catamaran launch across Lago Pehoe. Then you load onto the catamaran and arrive at Campamento Pehoe/Lodge Paine Grande in the early afternoon where you can begin your hike.
Route we took- We decided to take the second option-west to east. Our main reasoning for this is because the Torres (for what the park is named) are seen near the end of the hike instead of the beginning. In retrospect, while the torres were spectacular, they were by no means the major highlight of our hike. It’s not like the Machu Picchu payoff at the end of the Inca Trail. In fact, if we had to do it all over again, we probably would have taken an extra day to camp in the Valle de Frances on day 3, which was our personal highlight.
Here is the breakdown of where we hiked and camped each day. There will be a recap post next week that will go into more detail about the actual hike itself. This is just a quick guide showing which route we took. There is a small map below, but I suggest opening this map in another tab for reference since it is much bigger and easier to read.
Map of TDP-W Trek Outlined
Day 1
Starting Point: Refugio Paine Grande (bottom left of the “W” on the map)
Ending Point: Refugio Grey (up the left side of the “W”)
Sleeping Arrangements: We rented a tent from Refugio Grey and slept in their campground
Length: ~8 miles (11 km)
Day 2
Starting Point: Refugio Grey
Ending Point: Refugio Paine Grande
Sleeping Arrangements: We slept in Refugio Paine Grande in a 6-bed dorm
Length: ~8 miles (11 km)
Day 3
Starting Point: Refugio Paine Grande
Ending Point: Campamento Los Cuernos
Hiking Note: We left Paine Grande hiking east. When we got to the middle part of the “W” we went north towards Campamento Britanico in the Valle de Frances. After hiking all the up the valley and back, we continued heading east towards the right part of the “W”.
Sleeping Arrangements: We slept in a 12-person dorm room, with 3 bed high bunks. I was on the very top of one. Not fun when having to go to the bathroom in the middle of the night.
Length: 15 miles (24 km) Crazy long day that saw us up really early and hiking really late. Exhausted after this day. Be sure to check out the recap next Monday to get suggestions on what we would do if we had to do it over again.
Day 4
Starting Point: Campamento Los Cuernos
Ending Point: Campamento Chileno
Hiking Note: After arriving at Chileno, setting up camp, and eating lunch, I hiked up past Campamento Torres to the Mirador de Las Torres and back before dinner.
Sleeping Arrangements: We rented a tent from Campamento Chileno and slept in their campground.
Length: 9.5 miles (15 km) to Campamento Chileno. It’s another 7 miles (~11 km) round trip to the Mirador de Las Torres. 16.5 miles (26 km) total
Day 5
Starting Point: Campamento Chileno
Ending Point: Hosteria Las Torres
Hiking Note: This was a short hike to the end where this is a lodge that serves hot meals and cold beers.
Sleeping Arrangements: We took a bus back to Puerto Natales and checked back into our B&B, the Erratic Hostel 2.
Length: 3 miles (5 km)
Don’t forget to come back tomorrow for Part 2, which goes over what to pack when heading to Torres del Paine for a trek.
Wonderful, comprehensive and interesting guide to these hikes. I really hope I can see these places for myself someday. Gorgeous pics.
Thanks as always Cathy. You're too kind.
There is one other way to begin your trek, which I highly recommend for anyone who's up for an extra day of hiking. If you're going west to east, you can actually take the bus past the catamaran to the Administration Building, which is the start of a 17 km hiking trail that will lead you to Refugio Paine Grande. If the weather is nice, it's a great hike, because you get a panoramic view of the park as you hike in, and along the way you pass lakes with icebergs all sorts of outstanding scenery. If the weather is crap, it might not be worth it.
Also, when we hiked there in late November, our only option was the W, as the Circuit was closed due to snow. Technically, we could have ignored the signs and done it anyway (which a few people did), but it didn't seem like the smartest idea.
That's right, thanks so much Theresa. I totally forgot about that trail because we decided not to do it. I would venture that it's a beautiful hike. Thanks a ton for the information!
God it looks so gorgeous!!! So on my BL.
Thanks Andi! I'm surprised you haven't been there yet. No doubt you'll be there someday. It really is a spectacularly beautiful place.
God it looks so gorgeous!!! So on my BL.
crazy, beautiful colors and scenery! I want to go with you on your next hiking trip! These are awesome!
Haha, thanks Jade! You're welcome any time!
Adam,
I see that you did a great job putting all this together. I really like the details you add to your posts. Waiting to read more during the week. Thanks!!
Thanks a bunch, Ruth! It was definitely hard work getting all this information organized. I really wish I would have done it two years ago right after we actually hiked it! Glad it's helpful for you.
This will definitely come in handy for our big trip next year!
So glad it will be able to help. That was the plan. It was SO FRUSTRATING researching a trek in TDP.
[...] This post is part two of a FOUR part series entitled THE Definitive Guide to Hiking Torres del Paine. Check out part one, Which Route to Take. [...]
Those landscapes are just showing off
Very thoroughly written – you are honing your guide writing.
Haha, thanks Robin. It's not too difficult to get great pictures when you have this scenery to work with. Now if you could just give Lonely Planet a call and tell them to give me a job offer, I'd appreciate it.
Loving this guide Adam. Great job and excellent details. I wish we had this as a planning tool before we went!
We did east – west because my hiking partner wasn't feeling so great and we wanted to make sure we got to see the Torres. We were there in October and the weather was still pretty rough. Since the circuit was closed (as Theresa said, you could have ignored the signs…) the “W” was pretty busy. The refugios were overbooked and crowded with tour groups. Despite making reservations for camping equipment, we were still left without and one of the refugio workers lent us his extra blanket for the night.
The scenery was beautiful though and despite the snow and cold, we waited 30 minutes for the clouds to clear to see the Torres. Not the most amazing site of the whole hike, but beautiful nevertheless. I would love to go back and do the full circuit.
Yikes, sounds like you had an interesting adventure in TDP. I'm not sure what I would have done had we gotten to a campsite expecting gear only to be told there was none available. I was exhausted by the time we got to camp every day.
And yes, I would love to go back as well and do the whole thing. It would be amazing.
Let's start planning! I know a great guide….
[...] sure to read Part One-Which Route to Take, and Part 2-What to [...]
Great !!!!
Is the day 2 the same as the da1 one backwards?? Is there any other way??
Thanks
Yes, Katia, Day 2 is the same as Day 1 only backwards. If you are doing the full circuit, you would not be backtracking, but if you are only doing the W, then yes, this is the only way to go. Depending on what time you got on the trail and how fit you are, it's certainly possible to go out to Glacier Grey and back to Lodge Paine Grande in one day. I'll have some more posts next week recapping our hike, but one thing I suggest is skipping this portion all together and spending more time in the Valle de Frances (day 3 on this guide). But that is just my personal opinion.
Thank you so much for your very comprehensive blog. Have found researching where exactly to go in the W (as in Point A to Point B to Point C) much more difficult than I expected and have found this blog a godsend. I think we will do the same trek but with the extra night in Valle Frances as suggested. Thanks again, Vera
Glad this could help, Vera! We found it difficult as well, which is why I decided to write this. Have so much fun!!!
Great information.
I 'll go to trek in TPD in April for 4 days because of limiting time. Before TPD, I 'll go to Perito Moreno Glacier in El Calafate,so I want to skip Glacier Grey.
Is it possible to start treking from Refugio Grey to Refugio Paine Grande in the afternoon of Day 1?
Is it necessary to book ahead for renting tent from Refugio ?
Ahhh, Perito Moreno is awesome. You're going to love it. I have plenty of information about that on this site, too. Just go to the Argentina tab above, then Patagonia, and you'll find several pages and posts about visiting it.
If you're going to skip Glacier Grey, then you can start at Paine Grande and just start heading towards Campamento Italiano and Valle de Frances. You can't rent tents from Italiano or the other camp up in the Valle (Campamento Britanico), but you will be able to from Paine Grande, Cuernos, and/or Chileno. In April, it may not be necessary to book in advance, but I'd contact Fantastico Sur (the company who runs most refugios) just to make sure.
Have fun, and don't hesitate to contact me if you have any more questions.
I just returned yesterday from a 6-day version of the W, going East to West, and spending two nights in Campamento Italiano to enjoy the Valle del Francés. I think in total we hiked about 100 km and three days were more than 20 km but it was a nice circuit and, for those who care, much cheaper. The first night we camped for free in Campamento Los Torres, which was a short trip to the mirador. The second day was a very long hike to Italiano but because we stayed two nights there on the third day we were able to hike the Valle del Francés without our heavy packs which was a nice break. On day 4 we did another very long hike to Campamento Grey-Guardas, also a free site and one which has a very nice mirador close to the actual glacier (the mirador from Refugio Grey is actually pretty far away from the glacier). Day 5 was another long one, ending up at Campamento Caretas (basically including the hike Theresa recommended only going in the other direction). That is another free camp, only about a 2 hour hike from the Administración where we caught the bus back on Day 6. One GREAT thing about this route was that on Day 4 and Day 5 we passed through Paine Grande where there is a shared kitchen and people often leave food behind for whoever wants it. We ate really well there for free two days in a row and saved our gas by using their stoves. Also there are hot showers there which was great. I’d say this is a great route for those who don’t mind fairly long hikes and/or really want to save money. By doing this route, my total expenditures, not including food, was the CLP15,000 entrance fee, the CLP12,000 bus (round-trip), and the shuttle from the entrance at Laguna Amarga (CLP1,500). Not too bad.
Awesome. Thanks so much for all the great information. I’m sure it will help loads of people out. Glad you enjoyed your experience. What an amazing and beautiful place, huh? Thanks again for such a detailed and helpful comment!
We would love to go the same West to East route. however, we would like to only stay in the refugios. Whats an alternative to Campamento Chileno?
Ifound my answer by reading your notes!! Thanks.
I think we are going to mimic your routing. Thanks.