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When a Destination Sucks – A Trip to Gaiman

by Adam Seper on January 19, 2011

Tea Pot-Gaiman, Argentina

Gaiman is known for its traditional Welsh tea houses *-picture by willposh

Positivity and enthusiasm typically emanate from the screen when visitors come to World Travel for Couples.  When I really love a place, it tends to show in my writing.  But what about the flip side?  What about when you head to a new place and it just flat out sucks?  That’s what happened on a day trip to Gaiman, a little Welsh village not far outside Trelew in the northern part of Argentine Patagonia.

Why we visited Gaiman

*-pic by willposh

In my opinion, traveling as a couple is better than traveling solo 99% of the time.  This experience was part of that 1%.  There’s obviously a lot of give and take when traveling as a couple, whether that couple is a married one, dating, friends, partners, or family members.  No two people are perfectly compatible, so compromise is a must when traveling together.

The wife read about Gaiman in our guidebook and decided that a day trip to a small little village in Argentina known for its Welsh heritage and traditional tea houses would be a good idea.  When reading and hearing about it, I was less than enthusiastic, but she was super excited about it, so I played along.  We had a day to kill in Trelew anyway (where there isn’t much to do) since our overnight bus trip to Bariloche wasn’t leaving until nighttime.

The Itinerary

The plan was to drink some tea and eat some sweets *-picture by aokettun

Gaiman was only about a 30 minute bus ride from Trelew, where we were staying for a few days as a base to explore Punta Tombo penguin colony.  It was a Saturday, so we assumed it would be a good day to go.  The plan was to walk around and explore the town, usually a favorite activity of ours when visiting a new place.  Gaiman was known for their traditional Welsh tea houses, serving tea and a myriad of cakes and sweets, so the plan was to arrive before lunch, explore a bit, then find a tea house or two to chill and eat and drink at.  While I wasn’t fired up about it, walking around and eating sweets and drinking tea didn’t sound like the worst thing in the world.

The Arrival

The bus was pretty empty as we headed out of Trelew towards Gaiman.  Seeing the excited look on my wife’s face was good enough for me to get excited as well.  We exited the bus upon arrival and headed to the nearby information center.  Though curiously empty, the people there were quite helpful as they gave us a map that marked some chapels and tea houses.  We had our map handy, and we were off.

Where is everybody?

It was a weekend day, and though it was early, we were confused by the completely empty streets.  It was practically deserted.  So we wandered further, thinking maybe we were a bit early.  We came to the first tea house on our map.  Opening at 2pm.  “Hmmm,” we thought as we glanced at our watches (it was about 11:30), “guess we’ll check out some more.”  Opening at 4pm.  Opening at 2pm.

We thought it odd that none were actually open for lunch, but that was okay.  We could grab a bit somewhere else and just have dessert later.  We continued to walk.  No one was around.  There was a nice little park in the middle of town.  No one.  It was completely empty, devoid of both tourists and locals.  We were baffled.  I began to get annoyed, but for one of the first times in my life, I bit my tongue and didn’t say anything.  We continued to walk.

The Chapels

Chapels and churches are always a great thing to see in South America.  We saw some beautiful churches with tons of history, and the people at the information center pointed out several.  We figured we’d kill some time seeing those until a tea house or two opened.  Another fail.  We expected to see some really old structures with a lot of character that were unique to the other chapels and churches we had seen thus far in our time on the continent.  We hoped to view the Welsh culture evident in the buildings.  Instead we found a few brick chapels that looked as though they could have been built within the last few years.  Nothing special at all.

The Realization

Again, I somehow, miraculously, managed to say nothing.  I knew Megan was excited to see this little town, and I really didn’t want to ruin her fun.  Finally, she turned to me and exclaimed, “This place kinda sucks.”

Words had never sounded so sweet to me as I laughed quite hard and said, “Thank God you feel the same way!”  She knew I had been biting my tongue, and I was relieved to finally be able to make fun of this ridiculous place.  We found a little market and grabbed a quick bite to eat and decided we’d go to a tea house, have some tea, eat some cake, and make the best of the rest of the afternoon.

Another Fail

It just wasn't our day in Gaiman *-pic by styro

We walked and laughed at the absurdity of this weird little place.  We came upon a tea house that would be opening soon and checked out a menu on the front door.  The prices were high.  Really high.  While we didn’t expect them to be giving away tea and sweets, we also didn’t plan on blowing up our budget for some snacks.  So we went to another one.  Same thing.  “Are you kidding me?” we both said to each other, laughing and giggling at yet another negative.  This just didn’t seem to be our day.

At least there’s wine

We knew Argentine wine wouldn't let us down. *-pic by Manny Hernandez

Thank God we were still in Argentina.  Everything we had planned on doing that day blew up in our face, but we rolled with it, trying to make the best of a bad situation.  We made fun of this odd little place as we continued to walk and figure out our next move.  We had a few more hours before the next bus showed up to go back to Trelew, and at that time we stumbled upon a little bar and restaurant that was actually open.

So instead of taking part in a new cultural event of tea and cakes, we decided to embrace the Argentine culture that we already knew we loved so much.  A bottle of red wine would do just fine as we waited for the next bus.

Not all travels are great.  Not all activities create memories that last a lifetime.  Sometimes, visiting a new place just sucks.  And while maybe we just went on the wrong day or the wrong time, but our trip to Gaiman will always remembered for what it was, an epic fail of a day.  We had plenty other days like this on our trip.  Not every day can be a great one, and we didn’t always handle days like this with such humor.  But rolling with the punches and making the best of a bad situation made this particular day memorable for another reason-because it sucked so bad.

Now, whenever either of us mention the name Gaiman, we both chuckle and laugh at this funny little town and the day we spent there.

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  • Meg

    Gaiman is now, in my head, a synonym for epic fail. Sorry, Gaiman! (In fairness, we do have friends who went and enjoyed it.)

  • jeffjung

    I also found Gaiman eerily quiet. But, we went just for the tea (which we enjoyed) and then headed back to our hostel in Puerto Madryn. Sounds like we made the right move

  • http://twitter.com/OneGiantStep OneGiantStep

    At least there's always wine! And good, cheap wine at that!

  • http://www.journeyofatravelwriter.com Adam

    We went for the tea as well, but none were open for the first few hours, then we got sticker shock when we actually checked out some menus. If we were traveling on a larger budget, I would imagine we would have enjoyed it more. The emptiness was the thing that really surprised us more than anything. It was just weird.

  • http://www.journeyofatravelwriter.com Adam

    INDEED!

  • http://www.journeyofatravelwriter.com Adam

    Megan, you really need to get an avatar. :)

  • nate

    we did a day trip to gaiman from puerto madryn as well, which we enjoyed. we had the luck of going with argentines who showed us around, but, that being said, gaiman is a really odd place. time seems to have stopped there. i wouldn't want to spend more than a day there, but i did like it because of its oddness. a place i didn't particularly care for was Salta. hot, muggy, crowded, and not a lot going on.

  • http://budgettravelintentions.com/ Jeremy B

    There are honest posts – and then there are this. Good thing this wasn't a sponsored or paid tour huh? They would have hated your honest review of this place! So what you're saying is “this isn't a good place to visit and that we should skip it” right? :)

  • http://budgettravelintentions.com/ Jeremy B

    One other thing – it would have been more enjoyable if you understand that they were on British tea time (mid to late afternoons)! :)

  • http://www.journeyofatravelwriter.com Adam

    It really is an odd place, isn't it? It's funny that we didn't hate our time there or anything. We actually had a good time, but a lot of that was spent making fun of Gaiman.
    Funny that you didn't like Salta much. We really liked it there. But it was our first destination in Argentina, so I'm guessing that had a lot to do with it. That being said, we didn't stay there very long, so we must not have liked it that much.

  • http://www.journeyofatravelwriter.com Adam

    Actually Jeremy, I think it would be a fine place for a day trip. It was just not at all what we were expecting. And if we were traveling on a larger budget, we probably would have liked it just fine. The title is more for the “Wow” factor anyway. ;)

    And yes, had we known it was British tea time, that would have helped.

  • http://wherespoople.com Jill – Jack and Jill Travel

    Oooh, we've had our shares of this… and why is it that they're always places that I want to go to? But it seems that you guys managed to turn it around in the end and had some fun after all. It was a different kind of fun, but still. And besides… I always like to say, it makes for good story afterward :)

  • http://twitter.com/TravelingWithS Cathy Sweeney

    Thank goodness for the wine! Glad that you and Megan got on the same wavelength about the place so that you could turn it into a fun time by laughing about it.

    I thoroughly enjoyed the post, and also learned something new. I have to admit that I didn't know about the Welsh history and influence in Patagonia. So thanks!

  • http://thefrenchway.wordpress.com John in France

    I'm not sure if I've come across such a “let down” of a place. Maybe for me the only similar experience is when the weather rains on your parade!?

  • http://eatlaughloveanon.com/ Eatlaughloveanon

    Bad travel days happen. You're lucky you had each other to hang out with while waiting to get out of there. Now, of course, it's just another great travel story.
    But what I'm really wondering is — can you get inside that teapot in the first pic? That would be cool. Sitting in there drinking Argentine wine would be even cooler!
    Thanks for sharing your story.

  • Eringail

    OMG! My husband and I were traveling in Argentina this August and during a day long stop over in Trelew, waiting for a bus to El Calafate, we decided to take a day trip to Gaiman. I was really excited to see this Welsh town that the guidebook mentioned, it sounded so great!
    We hopped a bus out to Gaiman, and when we got there, there was no one around! We saw that it was the anniversary of the town, and most of the places were closed. We wandered around a bit, and found a teahouse that was open, it was wonderful! We were the only ones there, and we had great service. The treats and sweets were fantastic, and very filling. We decided, after tea, to check out the “old” and “new” churches. We had been in Buenos Aires earlier, so we expected a lot more. These were not the churches we were expecting at all!
    After that, we had pretty much expended all the options Gaiman had to offer, so we caught a bus back to Trelew early to get some dinner and some wine!
    Even though, it was disappointing, my husband and I remember that day fondly as one of those funny days that don't quite work out when traveling.
    It's always nice to have that built in best friend with you when having these experiences!
    It was amazing to find that you guys had the same experience in the same place all the way across the world!
    we didn't see the giant teapot though!

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